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Variations : We reserve the right to revise and amend this disclaimer notice from time to time and any revised version will be deemed to be applicable from the first date of publication on this website. Copyright © 1996-2010 Art2bseen. All rights reserved. Art2bseen includes : art2bseen.com art2bseenshop.com art2bseentile.com manningsc.biz Art2bseen is owned ,operated and registered to Anna Jean Lang Holmes I am now 59 years old and "retired" on permanent disability. I was born in Akron Ohio and grew up in Kent, Ohio. Mom was a nurse and I don't believe that she ever smoked. Dad smoked a pipe primarily but would occasionally also use cigarettes and cigars. He quit smoking before he was 60 and lived to be 82. Mom was a nurse and dad was an engineer employed by the General Tire Company in Akron. Both of my grandfathers smoked -- Mom's father died in his early 70's with emphysema. My mother passed away when she was just 67. Dad's father smoked until he was about 75 then quit, he lived to be 98. I tend to be more like my mother's side of the family. I began working at a country club as a caddy when I was 11 or 12. It was a great deal for a kid. I worked when I wanted to and made very good money, by the time I was in high school I was one of the top caddies and could also choose whose golf bags I carried. This was the early 1960's, minimum wage was $1.25 and here I was making $100 a week for 4 or 5 months every year. My senior year in high school I caddied in the American Golf Classic in Akron Ohio -- Gary Player, Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicholas all played that year. I mention my career as a caddy in my story about COPD because that is where I started smoking. However, I probably would have started anyway by the time I got to high school. I attended a school, which was affiliated with Kent State University, and most of my classmates were from middle or upper class families, by the time we graduated at least half were regular smokers of cigarettes. I hear other people my age say they didn't know the dangers of smoking and I wonder what planet they were on. I heard it at home, at school, on TV and in the news -- it was about that time the Surgeon General issued his warning on the dangers of smoking. The problem wasn't that the information wasn't available. The problem was that like most teenagers at that time I thought I was immortal. I believe that as teens we see danger as a positive thing not a negative -- at least that is the way it was for me -- if something was dangerous I was sure to try it at least once. I look back on high school as a very happy time and I guess it was for others in my class as well. My classmates are scattered all over the country -- actually two went to Canada to avoid the Vietnam war and one is still there -- so I guess we are scattered over the continent. Most of us went to college and now there are a number with masters and doctorate degrees. We are planning a reunion this summer and if the last one is an indication, about half will travel "home" for the weekend. It was a small high school and I played football and was active in Drama Club and other activities. In my family the question from the time I was very little was "Where are you going to go to college." Not going to college was not an acceptable option. I enrolled at North Carolina State and soon was active in the Peace Movement and the Civil Rights Movement. I was married my senior year and a father a year later. My wife was also a smoker. We had two children. I got lucky in the draft lottery so I was able to avoid going to Vietnam. Many of my classmates from High School and college were not as fortunate. While I was in College several of my high school friends were in the military and stationed at Ft. Bragg (Army), Camp Lajune (Marines) or Norfork (Navy) my apartment near the campus became their retreat. I took a job at a Community Mental Health Center in North Carolina thinking it was something to do while I decided what it was I really wanted to do. Little did I know I would make a career in the field. My career eventually took me back to Ohio and to a place called Boys' Village -- a treatment center for troubled children -- I spent the last fifteen years of my career there employed as the Director of Marketing and Public Relations. My wife and I divorced and I was briefly married for a second time. My first wife passed away in 1994 of a brain tumor, however she was also having problems breathing and with mucus accumulation probably as a result of smoking. With the divorce I was separated from my children by hundreds of miles. In spite of the separation and the fact that I missed part of their growing up years we have remained close. My oldest daughter will soon celebrate her twentieth wedding anniversary -- I am so glad she is an independent person and did not follow the pattern set by her parents. I don't really know when I developed COPD, I have had some allergy problems that would develop into chest infections or bronchitis all of my life, so periodically I would have periods when I was congested and short of breath. A doctor started using the term "Chronic Bronchitis" sometime around 1996 and in 2000 prescribed a nebulizer. About that time I bought some rental property and a home with about six acres of land. I started establishing a landscape nursery on the property this was to be my retirement plan. The nursery business requires hard physical work but at least at first I enjoyed it and felt up to the challenge most of the time. By 2002, I was sick and struggling to do what I had to do with work at Boys' Village, managing the rental property and the nursery. By this time I had a new doctor and for the first time heard the diagnosis of COPD. Looking back I am sure that I had symptoms that I now recognize as COPD for at least 10 years. About this time it was also discovered that I had, sometime in the past had a heart attack and also suffered from Sleep Apnea. My weight had gradually crept up from 200 pounds in 1970 to 250 pounds by 2002 and I was snoring at night and feeling tired most of the time. My daughter recognized that I was in trouble before I would admit it. She suggested that she and her husband and the four grandkids move to Ohio to help me with the nursery and rental property. Her husband is a very skilled ceramic tile installer and my daughter is an artist. They assured me the move would not negatively effect their income. Well I figured this was a way I could help her and spend some time with the grandkids. She figured this was a way for her to intervene and save the life of her only remaining parent, she was sure that I didn't have long to live. By April 2003, I was in serious trouble. I had been having trouble walking from the house to the barn and greenhouses all winter and was short of breath most of the time. In February I had written several grants for funding for Boys' Village and had put in some long hours. I had done this many times, always felt tired when finished but always had snapped back after a short while, this time it was different. By April 15 I was very sick and could no longer work, I discussed a short-term disability leave with my doctor. My employer had both a short-term disability and a long-term disability insurance plan that required application anytime an employee missed seven or more consecutive days due to illness or disability. By this time I was being seen by Mellisa Brown, D.O. who was a partner of the doctor who had first diagnosed COPD. This was my first experience with a female doctor. I will be forever grateful to her. She was the first doctor to be completely honest and frank with me about my illness and we had a long discussion about my future. The central theme of this discussion was that I should stop work right away, apply not only for the disability insurance but also for social security disability. I don't think the gravity of my situation had sunken in until I voiced doubt that permanent disability would be approved and she replied that she had no doubts that it would be approved. She was right. My treatment plan has been pretty simple quit smoking, get plenty of exercise (starting with pulmonary rehabilitation), take medication, use the CPAP machine and O2 when sleeping, and do as much as I can to stay active. After long discussions with my family and considerable deliberation, it was decided that moving from Ohio was also in order. The winter 2002-2003 had demonstrated that I would be a prisoner inside my own home if I stayed there. After considerable searching it was decided that we -- myself, my daughter Jeannie, her husband Rick, and my four grandchildren would all move to South Carolina. By Christmas 2003, the property in Ohio was sold, I had been approved for long term disability and Social Security and we had moved. With the money from the sale of my home we purchased two homes on Lake Marion in South Carolina. My son-in-law is a successful tile contractor and has most of the new home work in the county, he also finds enough time to be my regular fishing partner. For me fishing has been a life long passion and that certainly was a big factor in choosing to move here. I have a terminal disease for which there is no cure. I belong to several on-line COPD support groups and if I posted the last sentence on any of them I would be blasted with negative comments. There seems to be a taboo against discussing the finality of this illness and my on-line friends would be quick to tell me that death is inevitable for everyone and that many live long lives with COPD. They are of course correct. For me however, it is important to remind myself that this is a fatal disease that will in all probability cut my life short. It has already limited by ability to engage in many activities. It is important for me to remind myself about the finality of this disease so that I can live my life as though my time is limited. It is and I don't know when the end will come, therefore I live my life doing the things I want to do now not later for later may very well be a lost opportunity. I am not morose about this, in fact it is what allows me to have a positive outlook and keeps me from giving up. My planning horizons are much shorter than they used to be. This is a frustrating disease in many ways. I have good days when I can do pretty much whatever I want to do. However, there are also those bad days when getting out of bed, showering and having breakfast uses my entire energy reserve for the whole day. And there are times when I will become short of breath unexpectedly. I usually refer to being short of breath as SOB and it really is a bitch. I don't look sick and try very hard not to act sick, this is sometimes frustrating for me, as well as family and friends, especially when I simply cannot do something they expect me to be able to do. The simple act of bending over to pick something off the floor can be difficult and at times simply impossible, but that is not always the case. Yesterday I carried a heavy marine battery from the boat to my back porch without difficulty, but today had to ask my grandson to put the new battery in the boat carrying it would have been impossible for me today. So far I have avoided getting a handicapped sign for my car, but a few times recently I have changed my mind about shopping when I couldn't find a parking place close to the store. There have been good things about this illness too. I am retired living in a beautiful place. This is where I wanted to be I just got here sooner. I am closer to both of my daughters than I have ever been and see my grandchildren just about every day. I have had several friends from work come to South Carolina to see me (Living in a great place for a vacation doesn't hurt.) I have made some great friends as a direct result of having this disease. 6/8/06 Consider cultivating daylilies for your home garden By Jim Lang Looking for a new flowering plant for your garden? How about a dependable perennial, that is a prolific bloomer, available in just about any color and relatively free of pests? Sound good? What if it would grow in just about any soil, in sun or light shade and could tolerate our climate with its periods of drought and high heat? Does that sound even better? We are fortunate that this garden favorite is not a figment of the imagination. The daylily is all this and more. Daylilies are one of the easiest perennials to grow. They are extremely hardy and forgiving plants. Few pests bother them. Large well-developed clumps are weed and drought resistant and can live untended for decades. With thousands of named cultivars available, there is a daylily for every garden. Hemerocallis (hem-er-o-kal-lis), the botanical name for daylily means in Greek "beautiful for a day." Each flower only opens for one day. After it is spent, it is succeeded by the next day's blossom. Established clumps bloom vigorously for weeks and weeks. Daylily species were originally found in Manchuria, Mongolia and Northern India as well as throughout China, Japan and Korea. In their natural habitat, daylilies are found in swamps, seashore meadows, forest edges and on mountains up to 10,000 feet. The common "roadside" daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) and the Lemon Daylily (Hemerocallis flava) are two known species reportedly brought to North America by early settlers emigrating from Europe. Established daylily clumps often produce 200-400 flowers in a season. The bloom time extends from spring through late summer and with some varieties into the fall. Each plant blooms for 30-40 days. With the large number of cultivars available, it is possible to have continuous bloom throughout the season. Daylilies can be used to add color to a shrub border, are a perfect addition to a perennial bed and some varieties make excellent ground covers. Varieties range in height from a scant eight inches to four or five feet. While daylilies are grown primarily for their flowers, the foliage is also attractive. They make a nice edge for beds of all kinds. Daylilies grow best in direct sun or light shade. Strong afternoon sun can cause some colors to fade. The darker colors are especially prone to fading and do better if planted where they get morning sun and shade in the late afternoon. Although daylilies are drought tolerant once established, they flower better with regular watering. A good soaking at least once a week is recommended to produce better quality and more flowers. An application of a slow-release fertilizer that is moderate in nitrogen with higher rates of phosphorous and potash applied in the early spring and again in mid summer will promote growth. Removing spent flowers and seedpods will also encourage re-bloom. Daylilies are one of the easiest perennials to grow and for most gardeners remain pest and disease free. However there are a few exceptions and there is a new concern that a rust disease first seen in 2000 is spreading and may become a serious problem especially for commercial growers. Rust and leaf streak disease can be controlled by using a fungicide. The insect pests are also easily controlled. Clemson Extension Service has a fact sheet available describing daylily pests and controls. (Publication 2102 "Daylily Problems"). We are lucky to live in an area where there are some commercial growers of daylilies close by. A visit to one or more of these nurseries will provide many ideas about the use of daylilies in your garden and give you a chance to see just how many varieties are available. Most daylilies are reasonably priced but as you visit specialty nurseries be prepared for a little sticker shock. New introductions and rare varieties can be expensive. Most growers have hundreds of varieties available. If you visit in June most will be in bloom and you can see the flower you are buying. In the nursery, most daylilies are sold in pots. You can also order bare-root daylilies through the mail from many growers around the country. You should be forewarned: collecting daylilies is addicting and can become a major project! One of the best features of daylilies is the fact that they multiply rapidly in your garden. Daylilies grow rapidly to form a dense clump. Division is not essential, but may revitalize flowering if the plants become too crowded. Division is the usual way to increase your supply of daylilies. A single purchase can result in many plants in just a few years with repeated divisions. Division is usually done after the plants finish blooming for the year, but daylilies will generally tolerate division throughout the entire growing season. To divide, lift the entire clump and separate into "fans" - sections with a set of roots and leaves. The divisions can be single, double or multiple fans depending upon the whims of the gardener or how the original clump best comes apart. Compacted crowns can be difficult to divide. They can be cut apart with a sharp knife. Large compacted crowns can be forced apart with the point of a well-placed shovel or using a garden fork. Each fan should have its own collection of roots. Double fan divisions will clump up much faster than single fan divisions. Some books talk about "gently separating the fans." I don't think that gentle does it, in most cases, dividing daylilies can be hard work and brute strength and big tools help. I like to use the water hose and a garden fork - sometimes two forks - and still think it can be called hard work! Daylilies can also be grown from seed, but that is a topic for another day! Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. 6/22/06 Parsley, sage, rosemary … all possible in easily managed containers By Jim Lang Just about any plant that you can grow in your landscape can be grown in a container if the container is large enough, the container is filled with a quality-planting medium, and the plant gets enough nutrients and water. There are many reasons that people grow plants in containers. However, it is your garden and you really don't need a reason. I grow herbs, a few vegetables, annual flowers and a few perennial flowering plants in my containers. With the exception of one banana plant, I have avoided trying trees and shrubs in containers. I have a friend who grows Japanese maple trees and dwarf fruit trees in large containers - he moves them around to different locations in his yard depending on the season. There is an endless variety of containers available commercially and many recycled items make great containers. Bushel baskets, wooden boxes and whisky barrels all make good large containers. The smaller the container the more frequently you will need to water. On the other hand, small containers are much easier to move. For a growing medium, I usually buy large bags of potting soil. After one or two years in the containers - I empty the containers reusing the soil in my raised planting beds as a mulch or top dressing. I like to start with new potting mix every year or at least every other year in the containers used for annual plants. If you have a lot of containers or just want to do it yourself you can use a mix of one part peat moss, one part potting soil and one part coarse builder's sand. Add a little Perlite and a slow release fertilizer. Over the years, I have found container gardening the easiest way for me to have an attractive and useful herb garden. I grow herbs to use in the kitchen and a collection of pots on the deck near the kitchen works for me. Many culinary herbs are annual but many others are perennials and some of these will winter over in our area if you remember that they need water all winter. Currently I have chives, rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano, mint and lavender growing. Most of these are fairly easy to start from seed but as I just need a few of each I generally buy plants. Some herbs, especially the various mints, can be very invasive and restricting them to containers solves this problem. Here is a list that will give you a good start for a kitchen herb garden: Basil - several types, be sure to include a purple one Cilantro - the seeds are called coriander Chervil Chives and garlic chives Dill - easily grown from seed Fennel French Tarragon - A good substitute in this climate is Mexican Tarragon Mint - at least spearmint and peppermint. You will probably want to try others as well. Rosemary - Rosemary varies in its hardiness. In the Upstate one of the reliably hardy varieties such as "Arp" or "Hill Hardy" should be selected. These varieties are also good here in Manning. Other varieties may or may not survive in our area, but most will winter over in Charleston, so are worth a try here. Sage - some are very ornamental - try a tricolor Savory Thyme and lemon thyme - there are many varieties - some will survive the winter If you are really interested in herb gardens and want to try some of the less common ones you might enjoy a trip to John's Island to see the collection at Pete's Herbs (5920 Chisolm Road, Johns Island, S.C. 29455, 843-559-1446, http://www.petesherbs.com/). Both formal and informal herb gardens can be seen at many of South Carolina's show gardens. Herbs in containers will not rival an intricate knot garden. However, your container garden can be attractive and convenient. I use window box shaped (rectangles of various sizes) containers and several sizes of round pots for my herbs. In general, perennials you plan to keep year-to-year need bigger pots than annuals - with that in mind just match the container to the mature size of the plant. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 6/29/06 Beat the heat, but neglect not your garden By Jim Lang The hot weather puts many area gardeners on an early morning and late afternoon schedule for garden chores. Some of us do little more than mow the grass, try to keep up with the weeds and remove a few spent blossoms. However, you might consider a few other tasks for this time of the year. The garden centers still have a few bedding plants and perennials for sale. Many people like to purchase perennials like day lilies in late spring/early summer so they can see the blooms and know what they are buying. The plants would probably prefer earlier planting but with frequent watering most will survive. Seeds for some annual flowers such as marigolds, zinnias and sunflowers can be planted to fill some holes and add color later. Now is a good time to try to propagate some of your perennials like chrysanthemum, phlox balloon flower and bee balm. It is also a good time to plant seeds for shasta daisies, black-eyed susans, coreopis and coneflower - they will bloom next year. Take a break from your own garden chores and plan a visit to see the roses at the Edisto Memorial Garden in Orangeburg. There are more than 50 beds of roses ranging from miniatures to grandiflora to climbers on over 150 acres. If the roses are as spectacular as the azaleas were earlier this spring, you are in for a treat. The garden is one of only 23 official test gardens in the United States sanctioned by the All-America Rose Selections, Inc. Roses will need more water as the temperature increases. It's a good time to check the mulch and add to it if necessary. Visits to public gardens and the great gardens in your own neighborhood are pleasant ways to get good ideas that you can incorporate into your own garden in the future. A recent boat ride around Lake Marion produced many ideas. We are fortunate to live in an area where there are many wonderful gardens both public and private. The best time to pick herbs is just before they flower. This is the time where they contain the most aromatic oils. If you haven't already done so, buy some South Carolina peaches. Make note of those hard to mow areas in your lawn. You can reduce them by eliminating sharp angles in beds and borders. Single trees and shrubs can be combined into larger planting beds covered with mulch or ground covers. Put this on your fall "to do list." Be on the lookout for poison ivy. Glyphosate, 2,4-D amine and triclopyr all will work to eradicate this pest, however repeated applications may be necessary. Depending on the weather and other factors, it may be several weeks before you discover whether you have successfully eradicated the plant. There are some bargain priced shrubs and trees in some of the garden centers and nurseries this time of year. While fall, winter and spring planting are all probably better, container grown plants can be planted just about any time. The key to success with planting this time of year is being sure to provide plenty of water and not allow them to dry out. For more ideas, check Bob Polomski's book, Month-By-Month Gardening for the Carolinas. It is a great book and a real help. Remember that Bob is writing for both North and South Carolina and we are in the warmest zone of the area. Sometimes we can get away with doing things a little earlier than he suggests. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 7/6/06 How does your garden grow? In containers! By Jim Lang For those of us who don't bend and move quite as well as we once did, containers are a terrific way we can continue to enjoy gardening. Many condominium and residential communities employ professional landscapers and restrict the residents to gardening in small areas or on their deck and patio. Some gardeners just want to garden everywhere and containers are just a part of their grand scheme. Whatever your reasons you might want to considering a few containers as part of your garden this year. Flowers in containers and hanging baskets will brighten up a deck or patio, but they can do much more. By moving containers around the deck, patio and your yard, you can have color in the garden when you want it and where you want it. In our area, we can have color in our gardens 12 months of the year with a little planning and well-placed containers should be part of the plan. For instance, containers can be used to brighten the areas where spring blooming plants have finished for the season. The mobility of container gardening makes it easy to rearrange your garden and add new elements of interest and beauty. Flowers can be given a center stage when in their prime then moved to a less noticeable spot. The containers may be made of clay, wood, plastic, metal or other materials. Containers must meet three criteria, however: they must be big enough to support plants when they are fully grown; they have to have adequate drainage, and lastly, they must never have held products that would be toxic to plants or people. Consider using barrels, flower pots, cut-off milk jugs, recycled Styrofoam coolers, window boxes, baskets lined with plastic with drainage holes punched in it or even pieces of drainage pipes or cinder blocks. Home improvement stores and garden centers have many containers suitable for both flowers and vegetables. Many gardeners choose to make their own from wood. Some gardeners have recycled some unusual items to use as containers for vegetables - I recently saw an antique claw foot bath tub being used for an assortment of vegetables. The smaller the container the more care you will have to provide - especially frequent watering. With smaller containers, it is best to select the smaller varieties of vegetables and annual flowers. In most cases, if you grow perennial plants in containers you will want to give them a container of their own and you will have to repot and/or divide them from time to time. Remember that your perennials may need some supplemental water during the winter. Annual flowers can be grown with a single variety in each container or in mixed containers like miniature gardens. All of the annual flowers available as bedding plants in this area in the spring can be grown in containers. In the fall, replace at least some of these with pansies and flowering kale for winter color. You can also start a large number of annual flowers from seed. Plant seeds directly in the containers or use other containers as starting nurseries and transplant the small plants to your containers. Park's Seed Company has a large section of flowering plants as well as herbs and vegetables recommended for containers in both the sun and shade. Fruits and vegetables can also be part of your container garden. Any fruit or vegetable you grow in a traditional garden can be grown in containers, provided you have a properly sized container. However, it is much more practical to grow some varieties rather than others. Most people limit the containerized part of their food garden to those crops that are very productive in a small space. Tomatoes and peppers are good examples; however, there are many others worth considering. Cold weather crops like lettuce, cabbage and broccoli can also be grown in containers. Park's Seeds has a blueberry called Sunshine Blue that has been developed for container growing. Strawberry jars have been a traditional way of having a few strawberry plants on the patio. Stark Brothers nursery features miniature fruit trees, which are much smaller than their dwarf varieties and are ideal for containers. Many people grow small citrus trees in large pots on wheels moving them inside to protect them from freezing weather. 7/20/06 Herb gardens make useful, decorative additions to your landscape By Jim Lang A few weeks ago, I wrote a column about growing herbs in containers. Containers are, however, just a part of the herb gardening story. In fact, container gardening is just a very small part of the story. If you visit historic gardens - the plantation gardens here in South Carolina and the European Monastic Gardens of the 12th and 13th century for example - you will almost always encounter gardens devoted to growing herbs. Herbs have been used for seasonings, medicine and sorcery for thousands of years. Some herb gardens are very formal in style, the classic knot garden and geometric beds of carefully clipped herbs being examples. Other herb gardens consist of carefully labeled specimen plants and could be called collectors' gardens. Some herb gardens are highly ornamental while others are purely practical. A common definition used to describe herbs is "a plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory or aromatic qualities." If an herb is a plant with a use as a seasoning, fragrance, dye, fiber or medicine, then an herb garden is a garden of useful plants. However, today's herb garden often contains plants that have not or are not now considered useful herbs in this traditional sense. The modern herb garden, like other home gardens takes many forms and can be an attractive part of the home landscape. A few culinary herbs in a small bed by the back door are a common place where herb gardeners get started. Fresh basil, sage, thyme, chives, oregano and rosemary are welcome additions to home cooking. Mint is a great addition to ice tea and absolutely required for a Mint Julep. Most herb gardens today include some useful culinary herbs and many include some of the historic medicinal herbs. Some of the most common culinary herbs include thyme, basil, oregano, mint and rosemary. Common medicinal herbs include rue, feverfew, chamomile and purple coneflower (Echinacea). However, these are just a few - there are literally thousands of different plants that can be and are included in herb gardens. Some common herbs, thyme and basil for example, have many varieties, with more appearing in the garden catalogs every year. Some herbs such as rue (Ruta graveolens) can repel some obnoxious insects from the garden. Rue is just one herb that is said to deter insects in the garden. Peppermint is said to repel ants, the white cabbage moth, aphids and the flea beetle. Garlic discourages aphids, the flea and Japanese beetles as well as spider mites. Perennial chives also repel aphids and spider mites. Chives are often planted among roses to keep aphids away and to resist the disease, black spot. Basil drives away both flies and mosquitoes. Borage is said to deter the tomato hornworm and rosemary and sage to repel cabbage moths, bean beetles and carrot flies. Herbs can also be used to attract beneficial insects to your garden. Perennial yarrow for example, attracts ladybugs that consume masses of aphids. Basil really adds to the flavor of cooked tomatoes and basil and tomatoes seem to grow better when they are planted in close proximity to each other. Annual marigolds can be used anywhere to deter the Mexican bean beetle, squash bug, thrips, tomato hornworm and whiteflies. They are also known to repel harmful root knot nematodes (soil-dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses and strawberries. Most herbs need sandy, dry, fertile soil and many will withstand the heat of a South Carolina summer. Mints are very popular herbs with many different varieties, but can be a problem for the home gardener. They can be invasive and this can become a problem. Most authorities recommend containing them in sunken pots or using some type of barrier. My mother had a bed of mint by the patio, which had invaded the lawn bordering the bed. Every time the grass was mowed we enjoyed the strong fragrance of the fresh cut mint and considered this invasion a plus rather than a problem. Most garden centers include a few herb plants, enough to get started, but nowhere near enough to satisfy the serious herb gardener. Fortunately many herbs are easy to start from seed and others can be started from cuttings. Pete's Herbs, on John's Island is worth a visit. Pete has hundreds of varieties available as small plants. There are also many mail-order sources of herb seeds and plants. 8/3/06 Carolina Fences make for very special gardens By Jim Lang Working together, the South Carolina Wildlife Federation, (SCWF) the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources, Duke Power, the National Wild Turkey Federation and the Garden Clubs of South Carolina, have developed the idea of a very special garden they call the Carolina Fence. You can see examples of the Carolina Fence Garden at every South Carolina Welcome Center and at a growing number of schools and other locations across the state. Our own Clarendon County Council on Aging features a Carolina Fence at its entrace, courtesy of the Council of Garden Clubs. The Carolina Fence concept can be adapted to many home gardens as well. The Carolina Fence Garden, once established, can be certified by the National Wildlife Federation as a Backyard Wildlife Habitat. The Backyard Wildlife Habitat program was started by the National Wildlife Federation in 1973 and is administered in partnership with the SCWF. In addition to attracting birds, hummingbirds and butterflies to your garden, the Carolina Fence is a beautiful garden and would be an attractive addition to most homes. The Carolina Fence is a concept that involves plantings and landscaping materials that are readily found in local garden shops and nurseries. The garden consists of materials and plants that represent the history and heritage of South Carolina. These elements are combined to create a beautiful garden that attracts hummingbirds, songbirds and butterflies to your garden: o A split rail fence representing our pioneer and farm heritage o Carolina or Yellow Jessamine, our state flower, is an easily cultivated perennial vine that does best in sunny locations. The fragrant flowers are the first annual source of nectar for many desirable native insects such as butterflies and bees as they stir from their over-wintering sites. o A Carolina Wren House mounted on the fence or on a post nearby, creates a home for our state bird. Wrens are very comfortable being in close proximity to humans. Their activities are a joy to watch and their song is a very pleasant backyard tune. You can build your own Carolina Wren house or purchase one from the SCWF. o A piece of Blue Granite, the official stone of South Carolina, adds another state symbol to your Carolina Fence and butterflies will love to bask in the sun on it! o Indian Grass, Sorgastrum nutans, is our state grass. Its flowers are visited frequently by bees and birds love the seeds. o A variety of native wildflowers in a mulched plant-bed around your fence can be very attractive to the official state butterfly, the Tiger Swallowtail. The Garden Club of South Carolina has identified this butterfly species to be of particular interest to South Carolinians because it serves as a pollinator in both orchards and gardens. Our state wildflower, Goldenrod, (Solidago spp.) is a great food source for many different kinds of wildlife. It has beautiful flowers that provide nectar for butterflies and bees. The seeds are eaten by goldfinches and other birds. How you put these elements together is a matter of personal choice, however, SCWF has a large garden design and a small garden design on their website together with recommended plant lists and estimates of the total cost. The home gardener could use one of these designs or adapt them to create their own unique garden. Hummingbird feeders, seed feeders and a birdbath complete the garden and make it more attractive to birds and butterflies. The Wildlife Federation's designs contain 31 different annual, perennials, small trees and shrubs, but you can use more or less. Perennials should make up the majority of the garden, which once established can be easily maintained. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 9/10/06 Common plants can help attract butterflies to your garden By Jim Lang Many people are adding plants to their garden to attract butterflies. Like hummingbirds, they are beautiful and watching them can add to the enjoyment of the garden. Some gardens are specifically designed to attract butterflies. Butterflies are looking for two things when they enter a garden: nectar, the food that adult butterflies need, and host plants, the place where the female will lay her eggs and the food that caterpillars need. Both are necessary to create a successful butterfly garden. If you attract the butterflies you are also likely to get the caterpillars and the caterpillars will eat plants. In most cases, each variety has very specific plants that it prefers. In planning a butterfly garden that will attract and hold lots of butterflies, you need to plan on providing both the food plants and the host plants. In addition to butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) and butterfly bushes (Buddleia davidii), a few other plants you might consider for a butterfly garden include: Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Coreopsis, Shasta Daisy, (Chrysanthemum maximum), Daylily, Goldenrod (of the Solidago species), Hibiscus, Hollyhock (Althaea rosea), Lantana, Phlox (P. paniculata, P. carolina) and Yarrow (Achillea species). Two great identification books for beginners are Peterson First Guides: Butterflies and moths by Paul A. Opler and Peterson First Guides: Caterpillars by Amy Bartlett Wright. For more advanced butterfly watchers, check out Peterson Field Guides: Eastern Butterflies by Paul A. Opler & Vichai Malikul, The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Butterflies by Robert Michael Pyle, Butterflies through Binoculars: The East or A Field Guide to the Butterflies of Eastern North America by Jeffrey Glassberg. Clemson University Extension has a short free publication that lists the plants that will attract butterflies to your garden, (http://www.hgic.clemson.edu) and some of the host plants needed for eggs and caterpillars. There are a number of large public butterfly gardens in South Carolina that can serve as a source of ideas for the home gardener. A really nice one is close by at Congaree Swamp National Park, located in Hopkins, S.C. This is a native plant butterfly garden and all of the plants in this butterfly garden are native to this area. These plants attract butterflies to the garden without the use of any artificial feeders. During a recent butterfly count at Congaree, the staff and volunteers counted 30 different species of butterflies using the garden. The count occurred on a hot day in June. Other South Carolina public butterfly gardens include: Roper Mountain Science Center's Butterfly Garden. This garden is a joint project of the Roper Mountain Science Center, the Roper Mountain Science Center Association and the Master Gardeners of Greenville. It's located on Roper Mountain Road just off Exit 37 on I-385 in Greenville, S.C. The South Carolina Botanical Garden at Clemson. The Lake and Hills Butterfly Garden was designed to accommodate the butterfly's entire life cycle. Adult butterflies visit the colorful nectar plants that flower during the growing season. The area is also specially designed to provide food and shelter for the hungry larvae and vulnerable pupa. The Wildlife and Butterfly Garden at the Coastal Discovery Museum at Hilton Head This wildflower garden is planted with the essential nectar flowers and host herbs and plants used by a variety of butterfly species and their caterpillars, or larvae, for food. Springfield Community Gardens. The Springfield community built this garden to honor a friend who was ill. A variety of perennials, annuals, vines, shrubs and trees fill a small space with vibrant color. Window boxes and planter pots dress up the enclosing walls of old buildings. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 8/31/06 Crape Myrtles stand as true southern garden delights By Jim Lang Crape Myrtle is a highlight of many yards and gardens this time of year and some spectacular ones can be seen in Clarendon County. In fact, they can be seen all over the county and in every municipality. While many other flowering plants struggle with the heat, crape myrtles just seem to get better and better. If you don't all ready have one or more of these beauties, you should consider adding some to your garden. They are available in shades of pink, red and purple, as well as white. Fall leaf color ranges from yellow to orange and red and some trees will display more than one color. Most cultivars also have very attractive bark for year around interest. Many of our most popular crape myrtle varieties available for sale are hybrids obtained by crossing Lagerstroemia indica with L. fauriei or L. speciosa. The U.S. National Arboretum created a series of these hybrids known as the Indian Tribe group. These are noted for mildew resistance and improved hardiness. They are all named for Native American tribes. Many towns in the area have used crape myrtles for streetscaping or to brighten the town square because they are both fast growing and attractive throughout the year. Crape Myrtles are third on my list of what defines a southern garden - right behind azaleas and camellias. They are special because they bloom at a time when the spring bloom is long past and even summer bloomers seem to want to take a rest. By the way, the common name of this plant it is crape myrtle not "crepe" myrtle, however the later spelling is used almost as often as the first. Crape myrtles were introduced in the U.S. more than a century and a half ago from China and Korea. They are well adapted to our area where we love them for their spectacular blooming color. Both large forms and dwarf varieties are available and both are seen in gardens in the Manning area, but the large form seems a little more common. There is some controversy about how crape myrtles should be pruned. "Crape murder" is a tongue-in-cheek term among horticulturists and some gardeners for the severe annual decapitation of crepe myrtles perpetrated in late winter by more than a few home gardeners and even some professional landscapers. It is a common practice to cut the trees back to large branches or even the trunk in winter. Since crape myrtles bloom on this year's growth, the severe trimming does cause an abundance of flowers. However, it distorts the appearance of the tree tremendously. Such massacres results in thin, arching stems and destroys the architectural beauty of the free growing crape myrtle. Pruning is recommended only to remove overly dense branches and crossing limbs. Cutting off old flower heads in summer can promote a second and sometimes even a third round of flowering. Crape Myrtles produce viable seeds, which may sprout and grow in the garden. It is common to find some little seedlings. The seedling trees may not have the same flowering characteristics as the parent plants, but sometimes produce interesting trees anyway. Clones, which will flower exactly like the parent tree, are produced by rooting cuttings. Crape Myrtles that are continually fertilized with nitrogen will put on a lot of vegetative growth but may not flower as profusely. Crape Myrtles benefit from an application of a complete fertilizer in early spring to produce enough energy for growth and flower production. Finally, my hat is off to the City of Manning and to the South Carolina Department of Transportation for their use of Crape Myrtles in public landscaping. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 9/7/06 Remember this motto: leaves of three - let it be By Jim Lang Poison Ivy is, unfortunately, very common throughout South Carolina and is often an unwanted visitor in our gardens. Many gardeners encounter poison ivy and poison oak in their gardens during spring and summer. For many, the result is an annoying rash. I am one of those unfortunate people who gets a pretty severe reaction which is very uncomfortable - the stuff seems to come looking for me. I don't think I have ever had a home where the yard and garden remained completely free of poison ivy. The entire plant is poisonous as all parts contain the irritating oil urushiol. Urushiol is a colorless or slightly yellow oil found in the leaves, stems and roots. The oil can remain active for months on objects. It can be picked up on tools, clothing and the fur of pets. Therefore, anything that may carry the oil should be carefully washed. Even dead plants may cause allergic reactions for a couple of years. Burning these plants can cause additional problems as some people have had severe reactions on their skin and in their lungs from inhaling the smoke. Poison ivy and oak should not be added to your compost pile - composing will not get rid of all the oil and the compost can become contaminated. I can attest to this personally as I once contracted a poison ivy rash on both arms after potting nursery plants using a mix that must have contained some contaminated compost. This is one plant that none of us wants in our yard or garden! Some people are more sensitive than others to the effects of poison ivy. Sensitive people often develop a severe skin rash within hours after contact. Just because you have touched it in the past without developing a rash, does not necessary mean that you are not sensitive - sensitivity can change from time to time so that someone who was not affected by it at one time can have a severe reaction the next time. Approximately 85 percent of the population will develop an allergic reaction if exposed to poison ivy, oak or sumac, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. The Academy of Dermatology also recommends that whenever you're going to be around poison ivy - trying to clear it from your yard or hiking in the woods - you wear long pants and long sleeves and, if possible, gloves and boots. Poison ivy grows quickly and propagates itself by underground rhizomes and seeds. Birds and other animals that eat its small fruits spread the seeds. Poison ivy can get started in the landscape from a seed dropped by a bird and may quickly become a widespread problem. It often grows in shrubs and groundcovers making it difficult to control with herbicides. If you find poison ivy in your yard or garden, you can attempt to eradicate it by digging it up or by poisoning it. If you choose to cut it back and dig it up, be prepared to repeat this process as it is unlikely that you will get it all the first time. This is hard work, involves some risk, and will probably have to be repeated, however, it is the most effective method that is environmentally-friendly. Poisoning the poison ivy plants using a herbicide is usually a more effective method. However, even with herbicides the process must often be repeated. To eradicate poison oak and poison ivy chemically, use a herbicide that contains glyphosate (products containing glyphosate include Gallup, Roundup and Touchdown plus others), 2,4-D amine, (Brush Master, Weedone plus others) or triclopyr (Ortho Poison Ivy Killer, Weed-B-Gone plus others). All of these herbicides can also kill desirable plants, so be careful. If the poison ivy or poison oak is growing among plants you want to save, you can cut back the poison ivy or poison oak and spray or paint the herbicide only on the freshly cut stems or stump, carefully using a sponge or small paint brush around your desirable plants. If there are no desirable plants nearby, you can spray. With some of the spray heads and bottles available you can be fairly accurate and avoid harming desirable plants. However, drifting mist and small particles can kill - and it doesn't take much to kill a desirable plant. Read and follow label directions whenever using any herbicides. These herbicides are translocated from the leaves and cut stems to the rest of the plant, eventually killing the shoots and roots. Repeated applications may be necessary. Depending on weather and other factors, it may be several weeks before you discover if you have successfully eradicated the plant, so be patient. Herbicides work better when you spray at the right time, but most are effective for poison ivy anytime the leaves are green in the spring or summer. Poison ivy and poison oak are most sensitive to 2,4-D amine in late spring or early summer when the plants are actively and rapidly growing. Triclopyr offers the best control after the leaves fully expand in the spring and before leaf color changes in the fall. Glyphosate offers the best control when applied between two weeks before and two weeks after full bloom (early summer). Remember it takes a lot more herbicide to kill poison ivy than to kill desirable plants. A drifting mist can kill desirable plants in your yard or your neighbor's, so please be careful. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and is currently completing the requirements to become a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension.He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. He has a daughter, son-in-law and four grandchildren also living in Clarendon County with another daughter, son-in-law and grandson living in Pennsylvania. Master Gardeners are available at the Clemson Extention office on Rigby Street on Fridays to answer your gardening questions. Visit them there or call 435-8429 during normal business hours for all your gardening concerns. 9/21/06 Enjoy your garden's bounty with these easy recipes By Jim Lang Most of us enjoy eating fresh vegetables from the garden at least as much as gardening itself. Nothing can beat a fresh tomato, a Bacon-Lettuce and Tomato sandwich or a fresh garden salad. In most cases, we grow what we like to eat. I would like to invite you to share some of your favorite "Fresh from the Garden" recipes. Here are some of mine: Ratatouille with Shrimp Serves 4-6 Ratatouille with eggplant and zucchini is one of my favorite vegetable dishes. I can remember my mother preparing it when I was a teenager. Shrimp is a nice addition to this old favorite. 2-1/2 cups shrimp, peeled 1/2 onion, chopped 1/4 cup olive oil 1 eggplant, chopped 1 zucchini, sliced 1 green bell pepper, sliced 1 red bell pepper, sliced 4 ounces mushrooms, sliced 1 tomato, chopped 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped 1 teaspoon basil 1-1/2 teaspoon garlic salt 1 teaspoon black pepper Sauté chopped onion in olive oil in a deep skillet or wok. Add chopped eggplant, sliced zucchini, sliced green bell pepper and sliced red bell pepper. Stir-fry until tender-crisp. Add peeled shrimp and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, chopped tomato, parsley, basil, garlic salt, and pepper. Reduce heat and cook, covered, for 3-5 minutes. Brunswick Stew Our neighbors in North Carolina think this is the appropriate side dish to serve with pork barbecue. It is a favorite for a cold winter evening. 1 lb. cut up chicken pieces 1/2 pound lean ham, diced 1 large yellow onion, chopped 4 large tomatoes, diced 2 cups lima beans 4 large potatoes, peeled and diced 1 cup fresh corn kernels 1 tablespoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1 small red chili pepper 2-1/2 tablespoons butter Put chicken in large stockpot with onion and ham. Add three quarts of water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for two hours. Add tomatoes, lima beans, potatoes, corn, salt, black pepper and chili pepper. Cover pot and simmer gently for another hour, stirring frequently. Add butter and serve. Cheese and Herb Stuffed Tomatoes Serves 4 This could be done in the oven but we generally fix this on the grill and serve as a side dish with chicken, pork or steak. 2 large firm tomatoes 3 tablespoons fresh white bread crumbs 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 ounce grated cheese, e.g. cheddar, mozzarella, etc. 2 tablespoons soft butter Fresh Basil or a pinch of dried basil Prepare the outdoor barbecue for grilling. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds using a teaspoon. Combine the remaining ingredients and lightly pack the mixture into the tomato cavities. Place the tomato halves, cut side up, on the grill and cook, over medium heat, for about 10 minutes or until the tomatoes are heated through and the cheese has melted. Jim Lang is a resident of Clarendon County and a Master Gardener through Clemson University Extension.. He is a graduate of North Carolina State University. He is retired after a career with a large non-profit organization working with troubled children. 10/12/06 Get color in your garden with flowering bulbs By Jim Lang In the quest to have year around color in the garden flowering bulbs can play an important role. I received my copy of Breck's Bulb Catalog (http://brecks.com) in early September and am expecting one from Brent and Becky's Bulbs (A Virginia grower and importer - www. brentandbeckysbulbs.com) sometime soon. I find both catalogs loaded with information and over the years, I have done some business with both companies with no problems or complaints. I use Brent and Becky's web site as a reference tool all the time. I also enjoy the catalog and website from Wayside Gardens (www. waysidegardens.com) located in Hodges, S.C. I try to make a trip to visit Wayside and Park Seed at least once a year. The term "bulb" is commonly used to refer to true bulbs and other bulb-like structures such as corms, tubers, tuberous roots and stems and rhizomes. Bulb-like structures store food to ensure the plant's survival during unfavorably cold or droughty weather. A common and frustrating problem of bulbs is failure to bloom. This can have several causes. Bulbs may rot in soils that stay wet for a long time. Good drainage is essential. Bulbs may stop blooming if they become overcrowded or are shaded too heavily. Sparse blooms on daffodils can be caused by planting too shallowly. If leaves are cut off too soon in spring, the bulb may not store enough food to bloom the following year. Some bulbs require a specific number of chilling hours to bloom and our winter may not be long enough to provide these every year. In short, many varieties of bulbs will not produce flowers a second year or subsequent years in Southern climates and are therefore treated as annuals. However, there are bulbs that are spectacular in our area and that bloom and spread year after year. We can grow some tropical bulbs that cannot be grown or have to be lifted every year further north. Daffodils (the Narcissus species and hybrids) are the most successful of the popular spring bulbs for naturalizing in the South. In general, jonquil hybrids, tazetta hybrids, poeticus and species daffodils will grow reliably throughout South Carolina. Choose cultivars of large-flowered, trumpet, double and late-blooming daffodils carefully. Tulips can usually only be counted on for a single season of color in South Carolina. They are treated like annual flowers, dug and discarded after they have bloomed in the spring. To ensure spring-flowering in central and coastal South Carolina, refrigerate bulbs from the time of purchase until planting in November to late December. Plant tulip bulbs 6-8 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart. Crocus are one of the earliest-flowering spring bulbs. Many begin blooming in late winter. Plant crocuses in full sun or light shade in November, 3 inches deep and 3-4 inches apart. Separate overcrowded clumps and replant every few years after the foliage begins to wither. Excellent crocus for growing throughout South Carolina include: Cloth of Gold Crocus (C. angustifolius), Snow Crocus (C. chrysanthus), Tommies (C. tommasinianus) and their cultivars. Mice seem to be especially fond of some varieties and will dig them up. The showy, large-flowered Dutch crocus do not naturalize as well as some of the earlier-flowering crocus species and cultivars. Dutch iris (I. x hollandica) grow to 20 inches tall and thrive in soil that becomes dry and warm in summer. The flowers have an elegant, airy form. They are available in several shades of blue, white, purple and yellow. There are many other irises that do well in South Carolina, in fact most irises can be grown here. Watch out for borers in bearded iris beds. Ornamental Onions (Allium species): These beautiful relatives of onions have small flowers in globular clusters that range from just an inch wide to over 8 inches across. The flower colors range from white to bright yellow, lavender, blue and deep magenta. Some are less than a foot tall, while others can grow to 4 feet tall or even more. Some of the best alliums for the South are the Naples onion (A. neopolitanum), the drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon), Allium ostrowkianum and the Star of Persia (A. christophii). All bloom in late spring. Spanish Bluebell (Endymion hispanica): This is a late spring-flowering bulb for naturalizing in woodsy areas. It bears tall flower spikes of blue, pink or white. This species will thrive throughout South Carolina. Star Flower (Ipheion uniflorum): The Star Flower produces abundant bluish-white flowers on 6-8 inch plants. This easy bulb grows in sun or part shade throughout the state. It is excellent for naturalizing and multiplies rapidly. Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum): This easy bulb actually blooms in mid-to-late spring. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers tipped with green are borne on each 20-inch stem. They are good for naturalizing and are one of the few bulbs that will grow in damp soil. Snowflakes are often called snowdrops, but unlike true snowdrops (the Galanthus species), they grow well in hot areas. Grape Hyacinths (Muscari species): The fragrant purple flower clusters resemble tiny clusters of grapes. Grape hyacinths are easy to grow and naturalize quickly. They are early-blooming and are often inter-planted with other spring bulbs. Most grow to about six inches. Blue bottles or starch hyacinths (Muscari neglectum) and feather hyacinths (M. comosum plumosum) grow especially well in the South. Gladiolus grow well and can be left in the ground over winter. Dig up, divide and replant every three or four years. Other bulbs that do well in our area include: canna, cyclamin, crinum, crocosmia, elephants ear (taro), ginger lily (hedychium), many kinds of lilies (lilum spp.), spider lily and naked lily (lycoris). For some of these you will have to go to the large garden centers, mail-order catalogs or web nurseries as they are considered "minor" bulbs and are not handled by the "big box" stores. 5/31/07 Hummingbirds can add viewing pleasure to your garden experience By Jim Lang (Editor's note: Jim Lang wrote gardening articles for The Times Extra last year. He died on Feb. 23, 2007. This was his last article for The Extra. He will be missed.) Hummingbirds have been called "flying jewels." Watching them certainly adds a great deal of enjoyment to gardening. Ruby-throated hummingbirds regularly visit gardens in the Manning area - usually arriving in March and staying through October or November. You can attract them to your garden by planting nectar-producing flowers, using special hummingbird feeders and providing water. There is a hummingbird in my neighborhood that thinks it owns the butterfly bush outside my office window and he is not always willing to share it with the butterflies. He quickly disappears if I pick up the camera. There are 340 species of hummingbirds known in the world - all in the Western Hemisphere. Twenty-one species migrate into the United States. Of these, only the ruby-throated makes regular visits east of the Mississippi River. Other hummingbirds may occasionally visit South Carolina - in fact, 13 different hummingbird species have been reported in the Carolinas, although the ruby-throated hummingbird is the only one that breeds in the East. The first adult male Rufous Hummingbird recorded in South Carolina was banded at the Hilton Pond Center, in York, S.C. during August of 1994 and a rare buff-bellied hummingbird was captured in South Carolina during 2001. The birds fly north from late February to mid-May and fly south to their wintering grounds in southern Mexico and Central America from late July to late October. Usually they can be seen in gardens in the Manning area in the spring, summer and fall. Occasionally we may have a few winter-over in our area. Ruby-throated hummingbirds fly 500 miles nonstop across the Gulf of Mexico during their migration. The total migration for some individuals may be as long as 2,600 miles. The male's breeding territory is about 1/4-acre. A male will dominate and protect his area, in some cases become very aggressive, especially if all of the food sources are close together. You will see more hummingbirds if you spread the food sources throughout your yard. The nest is usually located on a small limb 10-20 feet above the ground, and can be made of spider and insect silk, plant down, bud scales and lichens. Usually there are two small (1/2-inch long) white eggs per nest. The incubation period lasts about two weeks, and there are two broods during the summer in some cases. Following hatching, a young bird is out of the nest fairly soon. It will be fed by its parents for about a month, then it will begin to feed on its own. Hummingbirds eat nectar, but they also catch insects from the air and eat leaves and spider webs. They will also on occasion, consume tree sap from holes drilled by woodpeckers. Flowers are, of course, the essential ingredients in attracting hummingbirds to your garden. Hummingbirds seem to be especially attracted to brightly colored red and scarlet flowers. Pink, rose, orange and purple also will entice them. Although it is held in disdain by some gardeners, who consider it a common weed, the native Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) vine is a "hummingbird magnet." It grows naturally throughout most of the summer range of the ruby-throated hummingbird and is almost guaranteed to attract hummingbirds. The tiny birds feed on nectar that is produced by flowers, and seem particularly attracted to plants with trumpet or tubular shaped. However, among their favorites are rhododendrons, azaleas and rose of Sharon bushes, so the "red trumpet shape" isn't a hard and fast rule. On my back deck, they are attracted to two hanging baskets of pink petunias. In the front yard, I see them in the butterfly bush, lilies, cannas, Mexican petunia and spider lilies. Here are just a few of the many plants that attract hummingbirds to your garden, there are many others. The South Carolina Wildlife Federation (www.scwf.org) has a list of native plants that attract hummingbirds on their website. Another great source of information is Operation RubyThroat (www.rubythroat.org) maintained by Hilton Pond Center for Piedmont Natural History in York, S.C. In the spring -Azaleas, rhododendron and rose of Sharon bushes make a great "background" for hummingbird gardens and attract a lot of the little birds. Pink and bright red varieties are favored, but hummingbirds love all rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) varieties. In the summer - Bleeding hearts, red columbine, petunias, morning glories, day lilies, trumpet vines, trumpet honeysuckle, hibiscus and impatiens. Mimosa trees (Albizia julibrissin) and tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) always seem to attract at least one. Don't forget the butterfly bush (Buddlei davidii) and spider lily (Hymenocallis). In the fall -Aster, zinnia, butterfly bush, day lilies, garden phlox, bee balm (Monarda didyma) and impatiens. Hummingbird feeders are also useful in attracting and holding the birds in your garden. They should be hung in the shade, cleaned and refilled every 3-5 days under normal circumstances and filled with a solution of one part table sugar to four parts water, brought to a boil and then cooled and stored in the refrigerator for future use. Hummingbird feeders should not be filled with honey solutions, as this may produce a fungal disease fatal to hummingbirds. Hummingbirds add some fun and joy to the garden. I can spend hours watching them and I am amazed when I see one hover or seem to fly backwards.